Scotland Sept 2011
Story below / all images here
For the last 8 years, we have made it north of the border to explore the wilderness areas around some of the Scottish lochs. A few years ago we tried to do the ‘Shiel Circuit’ which involves a four day paddle from Glenfinnan down Loch Shiel, the River Shiel and into Loch Moidart, a sea loch and around the headland into Loch Airlot. Passing through was fine but the area looked interesting, so this year we decided to explore the loch and spend some time there.
After a seven hour drive to a convenient car park about 20 yards, sorry metres, form the water, we loaded our kit into our boats and with just over an hour of day light left we paddled across to a flattish patch of grass amongst the tree at the base of Shona Beag. There were eight of us in total and we all managed to get our bivi set up successfully, except that Geoff’s new tarp spilt along the centre seam as he was tensioning it against the wind. A quick repair with some glue and gaffer tape solved the problem. After a sit around the fire and some food we went to bed looking forward some awesome scenery and paddling the following day.
A great place to bivi. Lots of flat ground, soft moss to lie on and loads of wood for a fire, and trees to sling a hammock between – what more could we want?
In the morning we decided to paddle the South Channel as far as the sea. The sun was out, some of the time, the wind was not too strong and the intermittent rain was exceedingly wet and heavy. At lunch time some of us moored up at a buoy in the middle of the loch to eat. Geoff had his stove on to make some tea, food spread about and all looked great until a sudden and torrential down pour soaked everything in 10 seconds. There was a couple of inches of water in the bottom of the boats within a couple of minutes.
Pendle Paddlers are nothing if not intrepid, (some would say stupid) so after lunch we paddled down to the sea. As we neared the sea entrance to the loch we saw large numbers of seals on the small rocky islands and more seals in the water watching us watching them. They would pop their heads out of the water take a look and quietly submerge and pop up again somewhere else.
Cooking fish on the fire. They weren’t very big, but they tasted good
Part of our agenda for this trip was to catch some food, so, where there are seals, there are fish. Ian caught the first one, then one after the other everyone managed to land some fish, except Geoff who didn’t even get a bite. The fish were Pollock, and the smaller ones were put back to grow for next year.
The tide had gone out by now so we collected mussels and cockles from the rocks on the way back and Ian cooked them in garlic butter – fantastic.
The fish were cooked over the fire and tasted great as well, so I was told. Then we cooked a meal sat around and recounted stories of the ones that got away.
On the Sunday, we decided to paddle down the north channel into the sea, around the headland and about 3 km along the coast and back in the South channel. The tides were in our favour – high tide was about 10.00 am which was good because the North Channel has only got water in it when the tide is in. Part way along we found a pleasant little bay to pull into for lunch.
Lunch stop in the North Channel
After about 45 minutes, we set off again and as we rounded the last headland before the sea, we could see across to Rum and other spectacular islands several miles away. Breath taking!
Away from the lee of the land, the wind was fairly strong and we began to feel the waves as they rolled in. At first, the route around the headland to the South Channel looked a bit too risky with some breakers crashing on the rocks, Ian, Andy, Frazer and Geoff set off intending to come back and let the others know if it was safe. There was a bit of a breakdown in communication here. As those who set off rounded the headland we realised that it would be possible to avoid going so far out by portaging across a 100 yard neck of rock at the beginning of the headland, but after landing to help the others, Ian and Frazer couldn’t find them. They had got bored waiting and decide to set off back the way they had come to beat the tide before it drained the North Channel and left them high and dry. As it happened, they only just made it, and had to drag their boats across some sand as the tide ebbed quickly
Andy, Ian Frazer and Geoff paddled back the to South Channel and found a beautiful spit of white sand made from crushed shells. After some lunch we began to fish at the bar, but, because the tide was ebbing, we didn’t realise that we were being pushed further and further out to sea. It was only when we heard some breakers crashing behind us that we realised that we were about 400 yards from the shore – not a good place to be in open boats! It wasn’t too difficult to paddle back into the loch, but an important learning experience. Keep your eyes on where you are and be aware of what is going on around you.
Another pleasant evening around the fire. Some more delicious fish, or so they say. Geoff still hadn’t caught anything, and an early night.
Monday was overcast and a bit drab looking, but we thought it would be good to look at the east end of the loch. It rained, the wind blew, but not too strongly and we fished a lot. We discovered that the fish tended to hang around near the rocky shore in bays or inlets, so that’s where went. Geoff still hadn’t caught a thing and by now he was feeling totally inadequate and useless – a total failure and not fit to be part of the group – almost suicidal in fact! And then, Steve came to his rescue and lent him a spinner and within about 15 minutes he caught six Pollock. Suddenly life was worth living again and he could join the human race again. We had paddled over a shoal in a bay which were eager to be caught. Frazer caught a handsome mackerel – a meal in itself!
The weather was nothing special all day, but it did clear up from time to time. We stopped on a shingle beach for lunch on the opposite side of the loch to the road and could hear a waterfall, but couldn’t see it. After lunch some of us set off to find it and investigate it. Steve and Julia had this thing about collecting water from every stream we came across. Some of the water looked more like diesel from the colour of it, but it didn’t seem to do them any harm!
Anyway we found the waterfall – quite impressive with all the rain we had had, and Steve refilled his water carrier, again. It looked quite clear compared with some. We collected some blackberries for pudding and as we looked around, there was a pool below part of the fall, and before you could blink, Steve and Julia were stripping their clothes off. They had decided this was a good place for a bath, so I decided to be discreet and paddle off leaving them to their ablutions, and headed back towards the rest of the group some mile and half to the west. The west wind was picking up and paddling became more difficult as we headed for back to our island for tea. No one caught any more fish that day. It was a mixed day of rain, more rain, wind and more wind, but we all had some fish for tea which was good.
Tuesday was reasonably fine and the plan was to be packed up and on the road by 9.00am. We almost made it, I think it was only 9.15 when we set off for home. In many ways this has been one of the best trips we’ve done because we didn’t have to get somewhere by a certain time. It was a lot more relaxing and we had time to explore the area and enjoy the amazing scenery. Also, we stayed at the same site each night whereas in the past we’ve moved to a new place each day and that involves quite a lot of work finding a suitable place and setting up a bivi. The group size of eight was about right as well – small enough to.
All in all it was a great trip and with great company, can't wait for next year!
Geoff
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Last Updated (Thursday, 17 November 2011 12:36)
