Loch Shiel - September 2008

Monday, 06 April 2009 21:37 | Written by Mark Gardner |

Loch Shiel - 4 men in 2 boats... have a look at the images here ...

Pendle Paddlers at Loch Shiel Friday 19th September –Tuesday 23rd September 2008.

After a long journey from sunny Pendle in Lancashire but after travelling through Fort William and then heading 15 miles west on the 'Road to the Isles' we got to the Glenfinnan House at the head of Loch Shiel, it looked like it was definitely going to be worth it.

Geoff and I arrived first and found that the Glenfinnan House hotel staff were a delight to deal with and they encouraged us to park on their premises, directed us to the best place to launch from and made sure we left our details just in case we encountered any problems and didn’t make it back! They encouraged a donation to a good cause for the help given. Was it because we looked like a motley crew or was it just their friendly way of dealing with strangers? This policy has paid off as all the team commented during the trip that we would bring our families up sometime and make the most of these fantastic premises. When Tim and Ben arrived the staff even allowed them to launch from their front lawn. We recommend driving further up and launching from the jetty as there is less portage.

After loading all our kit into Geoff’s hand made canoe (and me bringing more than I should have done) and parking the car up we were off onto a calm Loch Shiel, stretching in front of us south west for seventeen miles to Acharacle, where it fails by a mere two miles to meet the sea.

Loch Shiel is the 4th longest loch in the Lochaber district of the Highland Council Area of Scotland, at 17 miles (27 km) in length, and averages at just half a mile in width. Indeed in some spots the Loch is very shallow with large areas only being navigatable in crafts such as our canoes. It is 120 metres deep in a couple of places and because of its length is home to a variety of habitats.

If we are lucky we have the chance of seeing black throated divers and even Golden Eagles. The Loch is surrounded by the peaks of Moidart to the west, Ardgour to the east and Sunart to the south and the countryside around it is truly stunning.

My daughter Lauren is miffed that she cannot come this time (at 11 years old, a keen paddler better than me, is considered a tad too young at the moment) as this is also known as the 'Black Lake' at Hogwarts Academy in the Harry Potter series. I ensured that photo's of the area were taken so she can at least experience the trip second hand.

The Loch is seen in the background from this magical flying car scene. The Loch was also used in the boat scenes in the Mel Gibson film Highlander. As there is no road running along it we were expecting a quiet peaceful paddle away from the noises of modern life.

We decided to ensure we didn’t travel too far away from the launch site as Ben and Tim were not due until later on and would arrive in the dark so the first bivi site we clocked (Princes Bay) was chosen for its close proximity to the start. We were only about 30 minutes paddling away from the hotel but mentally miles away from civilisation.

The site chosen was good (apart from being in sight of a couple of fish farm tanks but decided not to go any further as we were not too sure how far we were from another suitable site) being shingle on a flat, level beach and sheltered from any future winds.

We set up a communal bivi for the two of us and stared into the distance in a dreamy type of way!

The other two called on the phone (all of us had phone reception which cannot be said for me in my home village!) after dark to see where we were sited and they set off looking for us. After what we thought was an excessive amount of time we contacted them and they realised they had passed us so had to double back to meet us.

After landing and setting up their communal bivi we all set about marvelling at Geoff’s home-made brazier (an old stainless steel biscuit tin with various holes in, a brilliant bit of kit!).

The first night it rained after we turned in but we were all really worn out after the long journey up and we had no problem with water or wind ingress in the bivi that had been set up.

Next morning after packing up and ensuring we didn’t leave any traces of our night's stay there we went onto choppy waters, with heavy rain and force 3 wind with Geoff (very experienced coach and builder of amazing canoes) tending to head towards the centre of the loch with me wondering if this was a good idea (inexperienced newbie totally aware of the 120 metres of water below us) but after the first stop (where the rain stopped and the rest of the day was fair and overcast) I got a little used to the feeling and started to relax into the experience. And what an experience. Stunning scenery, not much wildlife on the first section but an extremely welcoming sense of contentment at being away from normal life.

Our goal was to travel self sufficient which made the canoes low in the water but we made good progress and overall we averaged 11 miles each day. The second bivi site was even better as we felt we were totally in the wilds of the Loch and this time we set up a communal bivi which was odd at first for myself but made for a very bonding experience for us all. This time the clouds were nowhere to be seen and the full majesty of the night sky unfolded before us.

The third day out saw fantastic mild weather making my choice of t-shirt in the morning the right one. Sunscreen was also used by myself as the reflective properties of the water was making the effect of the sun on my face worse.

By this time the combined action of the two teams saw us co-ordinating our paddling strokes with Geoff commenting on the lack of corrective strokes now needed.

5.5 miles (or 9km) east of Acharacle we came across St Finan's isle (Eilean Fhianain or the Green Isle) an a small almost circular, uninhabited island which had an ancient graveyard and ruins of St Finan's Chapel and it is said to have been the first home on the mainland Scotland of the Irish saint with fantastic views and a tranquil last resting place for the ex residents of the Sunart and Moidart districts. This evening the bivi site was situated on land opposite St Finan's Isle on a raised grassy area and we went to town on ensuring we were comfortable and well settled in. Tim set about concocting a superb culinary delight that surpassed any he had made so far and blissing Ben out completely. Myself and Geoff had our separate delights with me having too much as the can I opened was too much for one meal but I had to finish it off. Greedy sod! Again a clear night with the marvellous night sky showing off to us.

The next day was spent ensuring we got to the end of the Loch at Acharacle with much ceremony entailing we actually touched Shiel Bridge and deliberating on whether we should try for the further 2 miles to the coast on the river. Sense prevailed and we decided to head back with us stopping at Acharacle to top up on fresh water, preferring this to using iodine treated water. A brief encounter with civilisation and then back on the water again. Hard to believe that Acharacle is the site of the 1140 battle in which the Norse were the defeated to found the ruling dynasty of The Lord of the Isles.

At this time the Loch had strategic importance as the communications route through the mountains as the short River Shiel was easily navigatable.

Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1745 was rowed the length of the Loch in order to raise his standard at Glenfinnan.

The wind was getting up by now with a threat of rain and it was decided to make use of the wind as we were travelling with the wind in our favour. We strapped both canoes together and stuck Geoff's large sail on and sat back and enjoyed a few hours of travelling in style. Ben's GPS was registering 7 -8 kph at times and I found myself just leaning back and making the most of the passing scenery. As we got close to the River Polloch (no we did not make any rhyming jokes of course) we decided to detour up the river to see what was up there.

Well, a fine bivi site was what greeted us further up and where the river became very shallow we set up the best one so far. Wood was plentiful and the shingle beach was a dream to make habitable.

Those stars surpassed themselves that night and we contemplated another perfect night under the open sky.

The next morning found Ben wanting to practise his poleing skills and after a spirited attack and when he felt the desire had been sated Geoff grabbed the canoe, dragged it a few feet over the low bit on the river and set off exploring the upper reaches of the river.

We met a local who kindly put off his chain sawing actions until we were well on our way. A sea kayaker who was intrigued with the idea of building your own boat and who was taken aback when he was shown Geoff's canoe. As worker with wood he appreciated the effort and skill involved in the construction of Geoff's masterpiece. As we had gathered large logs to use to hold the bivi structure down we were about to take them all back to where they had originally come from and this kindly forestry worker saved us a lot of work by allowing us to put them all in one place closer to the site thus saving our old tired bodies the effort of transporting them. Respect to the kindred spirit. The exit on the river into the Loch turned out to be the serenest river scene I have experienced so far.

Back on to the Loch and at dinner it was decided that rather than have a hectic rush back and head for a different Loch (one of the plans that was put forward) we decided to take time out and enjoy the experience we were on.

The decision to keep our shorts on was welcomed by us all and we all jumped into the bracing clear water and, after the initial shock, we revelled in the splendour of our surroundings from the unique position in the water. This was the moment I wanted the cruise ship (which we saw some days in the distance doing its eagle sighting trip) to come sailing past but it was not to be! Maybe they might have mistaken us for the Loch's more elusive occupant 'Seilag', the Loch Shiel monster.

The last bivi site was one that had been surveyed earlier on in the trip and we decided to have individual bivi's which gave Geoff the opportunity to use his hammock.

Geoff tried and failed at an hours fishing and after coming back to shore started feeling rough which culminated in a vomiting session and an early night for him. Check the rice based ready meals eat by dates is the advice Geoff would give to any one nowadays.

I conjured up the courage to head onto the middle of the Loch on my own for the first time and savoured the experience of being in the middle of a remote Scottish Loch with up to 120 metres of clear cold water underneath me. The scenery was breathtaking and I had to pinch myself to really take in the splendour of it all.

This was a brilliant site and I ensured the open end of my bivi was facing east so that I could witness the sun rise in the morning from the comfort of my sleeping bag. And what a sunrise! As with all the trip the clouds tickled and cloaked the mountains and the sun wrapped itself over the bare peaks of the mountains. By the time the rest of the team stirred the sun had risen and no trace of the magical sunrise was in evidence. Another moment unique to myself. Another advantage of getting up early kicking in! Thanks dad.

Unfortunately Tim had misread his pitch the evening before and spent the evening trying to stop rolling away but a case of a lesson learnt. This picture (above) was taken by Ben from the last bivi site well after the magical sunrise but still shows the majesty of the Highlands. The way the clouds cloak themselves around the landscape and crawl slowly around the hills is a serene sight to see and not seen normally in the Pendle hillsides where we live and paddle.

The last stretch back towards Glenfinnan and we (regrettably) came upon civilisation again and joined the tourists to touch the monument to end the adventure. Geoff reckoned we had paddled about 40 miles in all.

Overall the weather was fantastic for the trip and that made it easier as every morning was dry so we could pack our gear dry and have no problems with going to sleep with wet gear.

Overall we did a road trip of over 600 miles, paddled for 40 miles and took too many supplies but came out at the end with some of the biggest smiles we have produced.

This trip was magical with the right mix of personalities, a sense of adventure and being complimented with a large dollop of fun. Being the very first canoe and wild camping trip that I have undertaken I hope that the future trips can be better in so many ways but I doubt it. The setting up of bivi's is a fine art and I hope I have learnt enough to keep myself dry and comfortable in the future.

We all agreed to allude to others that the trip was rubbish so we could limit the numbers on the next one but unfortunately lads you have now found out that I cannot keep a secret.

I hope that you can forgive me and next time I will try to keep the next trip secret as well!

Mark Gardner.

Some useful sites: -

www.ilec.or.jp/database/eur/eur-26.html

www.road-to-the-isles.org.uk

www.wildlifeextra.com/go/uk/loch-shiel

www.visitdunkeld.com/tour-loch-shiel

www.lochshielfestival.com

www.jncc.gov.uk/protectedsites/sacselection

www.lochshielhotel.com

www.moidart.org.uk

www.songofthepaddle.co.uk